Around Lalibela, ela, ela….

In Bahir Dar, we had to split up with Terri as we wanted to drive to Lalibela and explore the famous rock hewn churches. The distance between these two places is around 300 km, nevertheless GPS suggested about 6 hours of driving (about 240 km is a nice tarred road and 60 km is a gravel road). After 3 hours of driving we noticed a first, wild vervet monkey. I asked Charlie to stop the car as I wanted to take a photo. I got off, but unfortunately monkey ran away. I came back to the car and saw weird Charlie’s face expression – Charlie discovered that our engine was….MEOWING!!! We opened bonnet and saw a little kitten!! We wanted pull him out, but he was too scared and he was very quickly moving from the engine to different van’s parts (like the wheel).

According to our Ethiopian rule on the road: You think you have stopped in a deserted place, but it is just a pretence as not even in 3 minutes you will be surrounded by people, lots of people who come from nowhere. That thing happened when we were trying to get the kitten out from the engine. Lots of kids came running and trying to help us with the cat. However, when the kitten saw and heard that amount of people, he was getting more and more frightened. For nothing in the world he wanted to be pulled out, therefore we drove few kilometres further, where we finally managed to catch him. We decided to take him with us and find him a new home in Lalibela.

Road to Lalibela was amazing. Beautiful landscapes and green highlands. Especially the last 60 km on gravel road (not bad condition) which was full of stunning views.


Lalibela (sitting at 2630 m) seems to be isolated place and not well developed, although lots of tourists have been coming here for ages. That place is definitely one of the greatest religious and historical sites in the Christian world.
In Lalibela we found a cheap accommodation – We were camping at the courtyard of the Asheten Hotel. That place also became a new home for „our” kitten – people who were working/living there, adopted him as a solution for mice (I think kitty didn’t like a „new” home that much as during our stay there, he was still sneaking to our car and sleeping on Rusty’s engine)
I don’t remember if I mentioned this before, but in Ethiopia it was cheaper to eat it local restaurant than use our „cooking gas”. Therefore, we were asking Ethiopians which place with food they would recommended to us. In Lalibela we were dining at the Blue Nile Restaurant. Food was really good and also cheap, the problem was the waiting time. Once, we were waiting over an hour, and when we were finally served our meals were actually cold, but somehow still delicious. Charlie ordered national food – ingera with meat, while I decided to try a local pizza, which also contained the grilled carrot and honestly – I loved the taste of it, even cold. Nevertheless, the food is not the only one reason, why I am writing about that restaurant. When we went to pay for food, we noticed, behind the little bar, a bottle of polish vodka „Wyborowa” (it was already empty, probably just a decoration). We asked the girl, where did she get that from and she said that actually that vodka was from her brother as he had been studying and living in Poland, additionally in Warsaw! We were so nicely surprised:D

Walking around Lalibela allowed us to observe how Ethiopians’ (especially young ones) daily life looks like. Once, we noticed some old tennis table and excited boys playing ping pong. Another time we saw happy teenagers playing footballers game on an old machine. We had feeling that time in Lalibela was passing slowly and people were happy.

The other things we discovered were: plenty of different shape and size butcheries and amazing taste of DELICIOUS Ethiopian honey.

From our observation, it seriously seems that Lalibela is tourism oriented and local people try to benefit from that as much as the can. Some of them just beg tourists for money or other things just because they are claiming to be poor, but some of them see different opportunities in foreigners. We had two interesting situations:

Once a young boy asked us where did we come from and when he found out that we are originally from Poland he started saying all polish words he knew!! That was impressive as polish is not a widely spoken language! He also added that he would love to learn more of our native language and asked us for a book in polish. Because we took some polish books and magazines with us, we gave him one. Who knows maybe he is studying from that:)
Another time, we met a boy who firstly asked us whether we could buy him a book as he wanted to study and gain more knowledge about the world. Because we heard similar things from other kids many times, we asked what he already knew about the world. He said that he had learnt all of the Europeans capitals…We didn’t really believe him, nevertheless we started asking…We started from the most known European countries such as: Great Britain, France and Germany…He answered correctly.. then we started with countries located in the middle of Europe…Slovakia, Hungary and ect…He answered correctly again…A the end we asked for the capitals of Macedonia and Bosnia and Herzegovina and he seriosuly knew the answers again!!! We were very impressed and we gave him some of our National Geographic magazines. Other boys who heard our conversation were trying to do the same trick with capitals, but when we even asked for well – known countries of Europe, they were not able to answer correctly.
Lalibela is also special place to us as we met there two, amazing, Dutch girls Sabine and Puk, who were on their way from Cape Town to the Netherlands. Those wonderful girls were driving their Land-rover – Willem across Africa making their huge, common dream come true:
Citation from their blog: „Biking our way to school at the age of 14, we planned big adventures together. Over the past years we have explored the world, but now – 14 years later – we embark on one of the biggest adventures of our live”

Puk and Sabine blog

It was really great to meet them and spend some time together. It probably sounds funny , but when we were doing research in the Internet for our trip we found information about them and I said to myself that it would be awesome to meet them somewhere on our way:). Moreover the Polish family, we met in Sudan, told us that they also had this pleasure to meet Puk and Sabine in Uganda. This is a real example that the World is small:D

Categories: Ethiopia II | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

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